The shoulder is one of two ball-and-socket joints in the body. This type of joint allows for a wide range of motion; however, this increased mobility often sacrifices joint stability if the surrounding structures (labrum, ligaments, rotator cuff) are compromised or weak.

 Every climber understands that having strong shoulders is crucial. Many climbers focus on strengthening the larger, mobilizing muscles of the shoulder with exercises such as push-ups, pull-ups, and shoulder presses; but neglect rotator cuff muscles that stabilize the joint.

Shoulder instability can occur due to an acute injury such as a fall onto an outstretched arm while bouldering or from repetitive overhead activities that place stress on the joint such as repeatedly climbing routes utilizing high lock-offs, Gastons, or dynamic movements.  

3 signs indicating shoulder instability in climbing:

1.         Pain or apprehension with overhead reaching, especially where high loads are applied to the shoulder in dead-point and dynamic movements

2.         A clicking, catching, or grinding sensation with arm movements under loads such as push-press and mantling movements

3.         Recurrent dislocations or subluxations resulting from the aforementioned

Shoulder instability can make a climber susceptible to numerous injuries such as dislocations, Superior Labrum Anterior/Posterior (SLAP) tears, Bankart lesions, and rotator cuff tears. If left untreated, these injuries may predispose a climber to shoulder instability and recurrent injuries.

Other types of questions for your physiotherapist may include:

• how to fix shoulder stability?

• what are exercises for shoulder instability?

• can you show taping for shoulder instability?

• what is a shoulder dislocation vs separation?

The physiotherapists at Elios Health, located on Main Street in Vancouver, are equipped to help you recover from a shoulder injury, improve shoulder stability, and prevent future recurrences. By utilizing manipulative therapy techniques, intramuscular stimulation (IMS), and exercise prescription, we can help you improve your shoulder stability and optimize your climbing performance. 

Original post by Rachel Rubin-Sarganis