Pull-ups are a core training exercise for most climbers. The grip position used in a pull-up has a significant impact on which muscles are being used and therefore being strengthened. Understanding the anatomy and biomechanics of the different variations of the pull-up can help you more specifically target your strength training for specific muscle groups and movement patterns. This is particularly important for athletes with shoulder and/or elbow pain to ensure you are loading the different structures of the arm and shoulder appropriately.

Without good ankle strength throughout the entire range of motion of the ankle, a climber may be able to get into positions requiring good mobility but will have difficulty moving out of them. Additionally, ankle strength and mobility are important for generating power for dynos, toe hooks, and heel hooks, as well as injury prevention — for example, preventing ankle sprains when landing on a crashpad, or tough heel-toe cams.

While the clamshell can be a useful exercise to strengthen the hip abductors, there are certain cases in which it may be contraindicated. One example of a scenario when the clamshell exercise may be counterproductive is in patients with lateral hip pain caused by gluteal tendinopathies.

Any serious athlete knows that recovery is just as important as the training itself. If you want to optimize your climbing performance, knowing how to limit fatigue and speed up recovery is as important as knowing how to perform a knee-bar, a finger jam, or drop-knee. Your ability to recover after a hard training session or working on a climbing project depends on numerous factors including age, genetics, and fitness level, but regardless of these factors, there are various tips and strategies that you can use to help enhance the recovery process!

Lateral epicondylitis, or tennis elbow as it is more commonly known, is a painful condition of the elbow caused by overuse. As you may have guessed, tennis and other racquet sports are a common culprit of the injury, however, several other sports such as golf, baseball, martial arts, and rock climbing can also lead to the condition. Non-athletes can be prone to tennis elbow as well, and it is a common occurrence in painters, carpenters, musicians, and plumbers.

Let’s explore the anatomy of the elbow, and ways to address elbow pain.