Scapular dyskinesia is a broad term used to describe a range of dysfunctional or abnormal movements of the scapula (shoulder blade). The term “dyskinesia” literally means bad or abnormal movement (“dys” = bad/abnormal, “kinesia” = “movement”). Learn more from our experienced physiotherapists.

A majority of training in recreational climbing is often hangboards, weight-lifting, and some dry-training (speed work). Unfortunately this appears to work only on the ends of the training spectrum. Elite climbers incorporate a significant portion of power into their training. This is known as contrast training. Contrast training is an advanced method for improving both strength and power through combining high-load strength exercises with plyometric movements targeting the same muscle groups. Research shows that heavy loading of a muscle induces a high degree of central nervous stimulation lasting from 5 to 30 minutes.

Trigger finger is a condition where there is a size disparity between the flexor tendons and the surrounding pulley system at the first annular pulley (the A1 pulley). This causes the tendon to catch on the pulley as it attempts to glide through unless enough pressure is developed to allow it to forcefully move through the pulley. The exact cause of trigger finger is not always clear, but it is often attributed to overuse injuries or repetitive motions.

We get a ton of questions about skiing safely, To ski with confidence, talk with a physiotherapist who specializes in skiing. It should be someone who understands the forces of the sport, and who has personal experience doing it themselves. Your physiotherapist will perform a variety of tests, discuss your activity, and make recommendations. Enjoy your winter season skiing in Vancouver and throughout BC!

Pull-ups are a core training exercise for most climbers. The grip position used in a pull-up has a significant impact on which muscles are being used and therefore being strengthened. Understanding the anatomy and biomechanics of the different variations of the pull-up can help you more specifically target your strength training for specific muscle groups and movement patterns. This is particularly important for athletes with shoulder and/or elbow pain to ensure you are loading the different structures of the arm and shoulder appropriately.

Nerve entrapment is difficult to diagnose because the location, signs, and symptoms mimic those of other common musculoskeletal disorders that climbers experience such as lateral epicondylitis (tennis elbow), and medial epicondylitis (golfer’s/climber’s elbow).

Regardless of whether you have nerve entrapment or a tendinopathy such as lateral or medial epicondylitis, the first step to recovery will be an accurate diagnosis so that you can begin an appropriate treatment protocol to alleviate your symptoms.

Flexor Digitorum Profundus (FDP) is a muscle that extends from our elbows, down our forearms, and attaches to the bones of our fingers via its tendons. The FDP muscle is involved in finger flexion (bending/curling our fingers) making it an extremely important muscle for climbing. Our FDP muscles are involved with a variety of climbing grips (crimps, pinches, slopers, jugs, etc.), and developing FDP strength is essential for climbing performance, but it is also one of the most common sources of hand, finger, or forearm pain and injury in climbers.

De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis is a painful condition that affects the tendons at the base of the radial (thumb) side of the wrist. De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis occurs when the tendons at the base of the wrist become irritated or restricted. This condition is often linked to activities requiring repeated wrist movements or grasping including gardening, tennis, texting, golf, hammering, and rock climbing.

Massage therapy and physiotherapy are both helpful interventions to treat a variety of injuries and conditions. When you are experiencing pain or have suffered an injury, an important consideration is whether you should seek treatment from a physiotherapist or a massage therapist.