How are you improving climbing power?

Introduction To Power

Climbing, especially bouldering, requires a series of explosive movements. Explosive movements can be loosely defined as the ability to generate, within seconds, a large force from rest. Explosiveness, in research, is referred to as power, and it is important to characterize how power is different from strength.

The two are on polarized ends: more strength requires a slower process, whereas more speed generates less strength. However there is an optimum point called peak power- where the combination of a certain strength and speed maximizes power. In regards to physiology, power is not related to muscle size, but rather how well the central nervous system is able to recruit and activate the muscle fibers to create a muscle contraction.

With regards to climbing, a large portion of climbing moves range from maximum strength (contact strength of the fingers and core) and strength-speed (dead-points, crimp throws, stopping a barn-door). According to the power curve this suggests that velocity needs contribute approximately 50% to the force generated.

So the next question is, how do we train for this?

What is Contrast Training?

A majority of training in recreational climbing is often hangboards, weight-lifting, and some dry-training (speed work). Unfortunately this appears to work only on the ends of the training spectrum. Elite climbers incorporate a significant portion of power into their training. This is known as contrast training.

Contrast training is an advanced method for improving both strength and power through combining high-load strength exercises with plyometric movements targeting the same muscle groups. Research shows that heavy loading of a muscle induces a high degree of central nervous stimulation lasting from 5 to 30 minutes. This means that following a heavy-load strength exercise, the neuromuscular system is in a primed and optimal condition for a subsequent explosive movement utilizing the same muscle groups.

The exact mechanisms underpinning contrast training have yet to be determined, however increases in neural drive and high threshold motor units activation (known as post-activation potentiation), and increases in muscle temperature and muscle water content are likely contributors to the short-lived enhanced state of the neuromuscular system. An analogy that can be used to help visualize the concept of PAP would be lifting a half-full cup of water when you think it is full.

Your body and brain is prepared for a heavier load, resulting in the task feeling surprisingly easy.

A 2021 study comparing the post-activation performance enhancement induced by isometric and isotonic exercise on vertical jump performance found that jump height significantly increased after both the isometric and isotonic PAP protocols in a sample of healthy male adults. Although the majority of the literature supports that the effects of PAP last 5-30 minutes, a 2020 study looking at the effects of contrast training on jumping and on on-ice repeated sprint performance in ice hockey players showed significant improvement in sprint speeds that were maintained six hours after the training protocol occurred, however the enhancements in jumping performance were not maintained after six hours. All in all, In the short term, the effects of contrast training have been shown to produce significant increases in strength, speed, upper body power, and lower body power through PAP. In the long-term, contrast training is a time efficient protocol for athletes to develop full-body power, increase muscle strength, and facilitate muscle growth.

So what exactly does a contrast training protocol look like?

Contrast Training Protocol

The main considerations when creating a contrast training protocol include exercise selection, loading parameters, and rest periods. When selecting the strength and plyometric exercises for a contrast pairing, multi-joint exercises such as squats and deadlifts are preferred to single-joint movements due to their involvement of multiple muscle groups, higher loading capacities, and functional carry over to sport. In terms of the pairing between the strength and plyometric movement, the exercises should be biomechanically similar (i.e. back squat and box jumps, or chest press and plyometric push-ups).

It is generally recommended that moderate-heavy loads between 60-84% of a 1-repetition maximum (1RM) are used for contrast training, although some studies have proposed that heavier loads above 84% of 1RM be used for highly trained athletes. Finally, the rest interval should be selected to optimize a balance between PAP and fatigue.

Take-Aways

1- Power is integral to climbing

2- Power can be developed separately from muscle hypertrophy

3- Contrast training is a fun and efficient way to develop power

Bio
Rachel is a second-year physiotherapy student in McMaster University’s MSc Physiotherapy program. As a former competitive gymnast and current avid rock climber she has a passion for exercise sciences and sports rehabilitation and hopes to have the opportunity to specialize in climbing physiotherapy when she graduates.

Co-Author: Waldo Cheung https://www.linkedin.com/in/rehabinapinch

Citations

Chiu, L.Z., Fry, A.C., Weiss, L.W., Schilling, B.K., Brown, L.E., & Smith, S.L. (2003). “Postactivation potentiation response in athletic

and recreationally trained individuals.” Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 17(4), 671-677.

Ebben, WP. Complex training: A brief review. Journal of Sports Science and Medicine 1(2): 42, 2002.

Gołaś, A, Maszczyk, A, Zajac, A, Mikołajec, K, and Stastny, P. Optimizing post activation potentiation for explosive activities in

competitive sports. Journal of Human Kinetics 52(1): 95-106, 2016.

Lagrange, S., Ferland, P. M., Leone, M., & Comtois, A. S. (2020). Contrast training generates post-activation potentiation and

improves repeated sprint ability in elite ice hockey players. International journal of exercise science, 13(6), 183.

Vargas-Molina, S., Salgado-Ramírez, U., Chulvi-Medrano, I., Carbone, L., Maroto-Izquierdo, S., & Benítez-Porres, J. (2021).

Comparison of post-activation performance enhancement (PAPE) after isometric and isotonic exercise on vertical jump

performance. Plos one, 16(12), e0260866.