A majority of training in recreational climbing is often hangboards, weight-lifting, and some dry-training (speed work). Unfortunately this appears to work only on the ends of the training spectrum. Elite climbers incorporate a significant portion of power into their training. This is known as contrast training. Contrast training is an advanced method for improving both strength and power through combining high-load strength exercises with plyometric movements targeting the same muscle groups. Research shows that heavy loading of a muscle induces a high degree of central nervous stimulation lasting from 5 to 30 minutes.

Trigger finger is a condition where there is a size disparity between the flexor tendons and the surrounding pulley system at the first annular pulley (the A1 pulley). This causes the tendon to catch on the pulley as it attempts to glide through unless enough pressure is developed to allow it to forcefully move through the pulley. The exact cause of trigger finger is not always clear, but it is often attributed to overuse injuries or repetitive motions.

Belayer’s neck is a term climbers use to describe pain and stiffness in the back of the neck that occurs as a result of looking upwards and belaying for long periods of time. The term belayer’s neck isn’t a single diagnosis, but rather a colloquial term used to describe a wide range of conditions that cause the symptoms belayers often experience at the back of their necks.

Part II of our series, “Recovery in Climbing.”

Can’t help but wonder - is there a difference in short, medium, and long-term recovery? Should you approach each differently? Short answer - yes.

Long answer - read on to learn more about how to maximize recovery from our Vancouver physiotherapy author Rachel Rubin-Sarganis.