adventure blog
Dr. Marieta Buse, ND — Competing in her first bodybuilding show in 2025!
Did you know that I am competing in my first bodybuilding show in 2025?
Nine weeks ago, I started on my goal to compete in my first bodybuilding show. Since then, I’ve received a lot of questions, so I wanted to answer a few of the most common ones.
Is hot stone massage covered by insurance?
How could this be a rock climbing clinic without hot stone massage? It just makes sense. Did you know that you can use your RMT benefits if the hot stone massage is administered by an RMT? Well lucky for you, our Registered Massage Therapist here at Elios Health is super stoked to help you have an incredible hot stone massage experience. RMT on Main Street is definitely the way to go!
What is Scapular Dyskinesis?
Scapular dyskinesia is a broad term used to describe a range of dysfunctional or abnormal movements of the scapula (shoulder blade). The term “dyskinesia” literally means bad or abnormal movement (“dys” = bad/abnormal, “kinesia” = “movement”). Learn more from our experienced physiotherapists.
6 reasons you should book an ultrasound appointment
Learn more about how ultrasounds are used in our clinic, by Dr. Marieta Buse, ND. Visit Dr. Marieta in our Main Street physio clinic, at the corner of Main Street and King Edward. Marieta works together with our group of Vancouver physiotherapists, acupuncturists, and RMTs to support your performance and recovery.
How are you improving climbing power?
A majority of training in recreational climbing is often hangboards, weight-lifting, and some dry-training (speed work). Unfortunately this appears to work only on the ends of the training spectrum. Elite climbers incorporate a significant portion of power into their training. This is known as contrast training. Contrast training is an advanced method for improving both strength and power through combining high-load strength exercises with plyometric movements targeting the same muscle groups. Research shows that heavy loading of a muscle induces a high degree of central nervous stimulation lasting from 5 to 30 minutes.
Love Your Shoulders: Improving Overhead Mobility
Overhead mobility can be explained simply as having adequate motion to allow the arms to be positioned overhead without compensation. Shoulder overhead mobility requires multiple moving body parts working together. Without adequate motion in the right muscles and joints, you run the risk of exposing other body regions to excessive strain due to compensatory strategies, for example, extreme extension through the neck, thoracic spine, or lumbar spine.
Deloading in Climbing
Have you ever wondered why you are finally able to send your project after a few days of rest, rather than trying day-after-day?
This trend does not appear to be only exclusive to climbing but in other aspects of performance as well. Researchers in a 2003 study found that approximately two weeks of rest in weight-lifters actually increased their maximum squat and bench press weight.
This seems counterintuitive, is less really more?
What’s Trigger Finger? (Stenosing Tenosynovitis)
Trigger finger is a condition where there is a size disparity between the flexor tendons and the surrounding pulley system at the first annular pulley (the A1 pulley). This causes the tendon to catch on the pulley as it attempts to glide through unless enough pressure is developed to allow it to forcefully move through the pulley. The exact cause of trigger finger is not always clear, but it is often attributed to overuse injuries or repetitive motions.
Biceps Rupture in Climbers
The biceps brachii muscle is a multi-joint muscle that spans both the shoulder and the elbow, meaning it has a role in movement at both of these joints. Its main action is elbow flexion (bending the elbow), but it also has many secondary actions such as forearm supination (turning the palm up), and shoulder flexion (raising the arm overhead).
A biceps tendon rupture denotes an injury where the biceps muscle is subjected to excessive loads and detaches from one or more of its proximal attachment sites.
The most common locations for a biceps tendon rupture are at the proximal attachment of the long head (where it connects to the glenoid labrum), and distally where the tendon inserts into the radius.
Injuries in Skiing and 5 Tips for Reducing Risk
We get a ton of questions about skiing safely, To ski with confidence, talk with a physiotherapist who specializes in skiing. It should be someone who understands the forces of the sport, and who has personal experience doing it themselves. Your physiotherapist will perform a variety of tests, discuss your activity, and make recommendations. Enjoy your winter season skiing in Vancouver and throughout BC!
Biomechanics of the Pull-Up
Pull-ups are a core training exercise for most climbers. The grip position used in a pull-up has a significant impact on which muscles are being used and therefore being strengthened. Understanding the anatomy and biomechanics of the different variations of the pull-up can help you more specifically target your strength training for specific muscle groups and movement patterns. This is particularly important for athletes with shoulder and/or elbow pain to ensure you are loading the different structures of the arm and shoulder appropriately.
Treatment for Neck Pain and Cervical Disc Herniation
Cervical disc herniation is a common source of cervical radiculopathy which may lead to sensory deficits, motor weakness, and/or radicular pain. The specific signs and symptoms of cervical vary based on which vertebral level is affected. This is because depending on where the herniation occurs, it will lead to compression of a different spinal nerve. The symptoms of cervical disc herniations are unique to each spinal nerve as each one innervates different muscles and areas of the body.
Learn more about neck pain and cervical vertebra health at our Main Street physiotherapy and massage clinic in Vancouver, BC
What Osteoporosis Means
Just as it’s important to recognize the risk factors leading to a diagnosis of osteoporosis for early detection, it is just as important, once diagnosed, to recognize and address factors that contribute to unfavourable consequences of the disease.
Physiotherapy plays a huge role in the prevention and management of osteoporosis. Early treatment is imperative as a preventative measure to stop the deterioration of the bones as soon as possible, and therefore risk of fracture.
Visit our Main Street physiotherapy clinic where our Vancouver physiotherapists will assist with treatment and management of osteoporosis. Find out what osteoporosis means for you.
Neural Tension (Nerve Entrapment) Physio for Rock Climbing
Nerve entrapment is difficult to diagnose because the location, signs, and symptoms mimic those of other common musculoskeletal disorders that climbers experience such as lateral epicondylitis (tennis elbow), and medial epicondylitis (golfer’s/climber’s elbow).
Regardless of whether you have nerve entrapment or a tendinopathy such as lateral or medial epicondylitis, the first step to recovery will be an accurate diagnosis so that you can begin an appropriate treatment protocol to alleviate your symptoms.
FDP Injury and Rehab
Flexor Digitorum Profundus (FDP) is a muscle that extends from our elbows, down our forearms, and attaches to the bones of our fingers via its tendons. The FDP muscle is involved in finger flexion (bending/curling our fingers) making it an extremely important muscle for climbing. Our FDP muscles are involved with a variety of climbing grips (crimps, pinches, slopers, jugs, etc.), and developing FDP strength is essential for climbing performance, but it is also one of the most common sources of hand, finger, or forearm pain and injury in climbers.
Ankle Mobility and Strengthening for Climbers
Without good ankle strength throughout the entire range of motion of the ankle, a climber may be able to get into positions requiring good mobility but will have difficulty moving out of them. Additionally, ankle strength and mobility are important for generating power for dynos, toe hooks, and heel hooks, as well as injury prevention — for example, preventing ankle sprains when landing on a crashpad, or tough heel-toe cams.
“Ban the Clam?” Rethinking the clamshell exercise in post hip arthroplasty rehab
While the clamshell can be a useful exercise to strengthen the hip abductors, there are certain cases in which it may be contraindicated. One example of a scenario when the clamshell exercise may be counterproductive is in patients with lateral hip pain caused by gluteal tendinopathies.
Pinching, Crimping, and Big-Wall Blues: De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis
De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis is a painful condition that affects the tendons at the base of the radial (thumb) side of the wrist. De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis occurs when the tendons at the base of the wrist become irritated or restricted. This condition is often linked to activities requiring repeated wrist movements or grasping including gardening, tennis, texting, golf, hammering, and rock climbing.
Prevention and Treatment of “Belayer’s Neck”
Belayer’s neck is a term climbers use to describe pain and stiffness in the back of the neck that occurs as a result of looking upwards and belaying for long periods of time. The term belayer’s neck isn’t a single diagnosis, but rather a colloquial term used to describe a wide range of conditions that cause the symptoms belayers often experience at the back of their necks.