Pull-ups are a core training exercise for most climbers. The grip position used in a pull-up has a significant impact on which muscles are being used and therefore being strengthened. Understanding the anatomy and biomechanics of the different variations of the pull-up can help you more specifically target your strength training for specific muscle groups and movement patterns. This is particularly important for athletes with shoulder and/or elbow pain to ensure you are loading the different structures of the arm and shoulder appropriately.

Without good ankle strength throughout the entire range of motion of the ankle, a climber may be able to get into positions requiring good mobility but will have difficulty moving out of them. Additionally, ankle strength and mobility are important for generating power for dynos, toe hooks, and heel hooks, as well as injury prevention — for example, preventing ankle sprains when landing on a crashpad, or tough heel-toe cams.

Any serious athlete knows that recovery is just as important as the training itself. If you want to optimize your climbing performance, knowing how to limit fatigue and speed up recovery is as important as knowing how to perform a knee-bar, a finger jam, or drop-knee. Your ability to recover after a hard training session or working on a climbing project depends on numerous factors including age, genetics, and fitness level, but regardless of these factors, there are various tips and strategies that you can use to help enhance the recovery process!

At Elios Health, it is the responsibility of our certified sports nutritionist, Dr. Marieta Buse ND to help patients make more intuitive decisions around food.

Eating healthy is much easier when you have a plan and great habits.

Here are three areas to help maintain an optimal balance with your nutrition and diet.

What is a rotator cuff? What are people always talking about it? In fact, what makes it a “cuff”? Is it like a cuff link?

Ok, we are getting a little out of hand here.

Read on to learn more about the anatomy of the shoulder, and our three favourite exercises to prevent rotator cuff injuries!

Lateral epicondylitis, or tennis elbow as it is more commonly known, is a painful condition of the elbow caused by overuse. As you may have guessed, tennis and other racquet sports are a common culprit of the injury, however, several other sports such as golf, baseball, martial arts, and rock climbing can also lead to the condition. Non-athletes can be prone to tennis elbow as well, and it is a common occurrence in painters, carpenters, musicians, and plumbers.

Let’s explore the anatomy of the elbow, and ways to address elbow pain.

How do you know if your pain is just something from last weekend's adventure or a sign of something more long-term? In this post we look at signs and symptoms of chronic and acute injuries, and what to do when you think it is something more than leftover stiffness.