Scapular dyskinesia is a broad term used to describe a range of dysfunctional or abnormal movements of the scapula (shoulder blade). The term “dyskinesia” literally means bad or abnormal movement (“dys” = bad/abnormal, “kinesia” = “movement”). Learn more from our experienced physiotherapists.

A majority of training in recreational climbing is often hangboards, weight-lifting, and some dry-training (speed work). Unfortunately this appears to work only on the ends of the training spectrum. Elite climbers incorporate a significant portion of power into their training. This is known as contrast training. Contrast training is an advanced method for improving both strength and power through combining high-load strength exercises with plyometric movements targeting the same muscle groups. Research shows that heavy loading of a muscle induces a high degree of central nervous stimulation lasting from 5 to 30 minutes.

De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis is a painful condition that affects the tendons at the base of the radial (thumb) side of the wrist. De Quervain’s Tenosynovitis occurs when the tendons at the base of the wrist become irritated or restricted. This condition is often linked to activities requiring repeated wrist movements or grasping including gardening, tennis, texting, golf, hammering, and rock climbing.

Part II of our series, “Recovery in Climbing.”

Can’t help but wonder - is there a difference in short, medium, and long-term recovery? Should you approach each differently? Short answer - yes.

Long answer - read on to learn more about how to maximize recovery from our Vancouver physiotherapy author Rachel Rubin-Sarganis.

The knee is designed to move through flexion and extensions and facilitate the squatting motion. For most people, it should not cause knee pain, however, knee pain while squatting is a very common complaint.

Usually, the issue stems from poor movement patterns when performing the exercise due to muscle imbalances, limited mobility, and poor form. When left unaddressed, these issues can lead to acute and chronic knee injuries.

Rachel (Physio Beta) is at it again.

Enjoy three of her favourite exercises for improving shoulder stability.

Hint: one of them requires balance!

As the weather gets colder, many rock climbers are shifting their focus from their outdoor sport climbing and boulder projects to training and gym climbing. For some climbers, however, the snow and cold weather mark the start of ice climbing season.

One common injury seen among ice climbers is “ice axe wrist”. It is an overuse injury caused by prolonged activity involving flexion and extension of the wrist, especially while holding heavy tools (such as an ice axe). Ice axe wrist is also commonly seen in rowers, weightlifters, and skiers.

We are all in a hurry to get to that next trail! However, us hikers and backpackers are are guilty (at one time or another) for failing to engage in a proper dynamic warm-up.

Warming up your (epic strong) muscles and soft tissues (not the kind you cry into) prior to hiking and backpacking is extremely important for injury prevention. Muscle, tendon, and ligament strains, sprains, and tears are less likely to occur when the body is warmed up.

Let’s take a look and see 7 warm-up exercises for hiking!

Stretching before engaging in your epic adventure (ie: sports and exercise) can help mitigate the risk of injury and optimize athletic performance by preparing your muscles, joints, ligaments, and other soft tissues for upcoming activity and load.

In adventurer’s terms: how you prepare matters!