Scapular dyskinesia is a broad term used to describe a range of dysfunctional or abnormal movements of the scapula (shoulder blade). The term “dyskinesia” literally means bad or abnormal movement (“dys” = bad/abnormal, “kinesia” = “movement”). Learn more from our experienced physiotherapists.

A majority of training in recreational climbing is often hangboards, weight-lifting, and some dry-training (speed work). Unfortunately this appears to work only on the ends of the training spectrum. Elite climbers incorporate a significant portion of power into their training. This is known as contrast training. Contrast training is an advanced method for improving both strength and power through combining high-load strength exercises with plyometric movements targeting the same muscle groups. Research shows that heavy loading of a muscle induces a high degree of central nervous stimulation lasting from 5 to 30 minutes.

We get a ton of questions about skiing safely, To ski with confidence, talk with a physiotherapist who specializes in skiing. It should be someone who understands the forces of the sport, and who has personal experience doing it themselves. Your physiotherapist will perform a variety of tests, discuss your activity, and make recommendations. Enjoy your winter season skiing in Vancouver and throughout BC!

Pull-ups are a core training exercise for most climbers. The grip position used in a pull-up has a significant impact on which muscles are being used and therefore being strengthened. Understanding the anatomy and biomechanics of the different variations of the pull-up can help you more specifically target your strength training for specific muscle groups and movement patterns. This is particularly important for athletes with shoulder and/or elbow pain to ensure you are loading the different structures of the arm and shoulder appropriately.

Nerve entrapment is difficult to diagnose because the location, signs, and symptoms mimic those of other common musculoskeletal disorders that climbers experience such as lateral epicondylitis (tennis elbow), and medial epicondylitis (golfer’s/climber’s elbow).

Regardless of whether you have nerve entrapment or a tendinopathy such as lateral or medial epicondylitis, the first step to recovery will be an accurate diagnosis so that you can begin an appropriate treatment protocol to alleviate your symptoms.

Without good ankle strength throughout the entire range of motion of the ankle, a climber may be able to get into positions requiring good mobility but will have difficulty moving out of them. Additionally, ankle strength and mobility are important for generating power for dynos, toe hooks, and heel hooks, as well as injury prevention — for example, preventing ankle sprains when landing on a crashpad, or tough heel-toe cams.

The bones of children and adults share many of the same risk factors when it comes to athletic injuries, however, because they are still growing, a children’s bones are more prone to a unique injury: epiphyseal fractures (growth plate fractures).

Through engaging in evidence-based practice, the physiotherapists at Elios Health will ensure you receive the best possible care when recovering from an injury and returning to your favourite sports and daily activities.